What is Jiva-Amrutha?
Jivaarutha is a solution prepared by the farmer with the help of Komiyam, Fresh Deshi Cow Dung, Jaggery, flour of pulses dissolved in adequate water. Such a solution is permitted to achieve adequate level of fermentation over a period of four to five days. During this period the microbial activity in the solution multiplies several times. Application of this solution on a regular interval of 7 days increases the microbial activity in the soil and brings back the lost humus. The increased microbial activity and humus in the soil will mobilise and make available the different macro and micro nutrients in the soil and enable the plants to uptake them efficiently.
How do you prepare Jiva-Amrutha?
200 litres of water
10 Kilos of fresh Deshi Cow Dung
5 to 10 litres of aged Deshi Cow Komeyum (Cow Urine)
2 Kilograms of Jaggery
2 Kilograms of any pulses in flour form
100 grams of soil from your farm land
Mix them well in any vessel or tank except copper vessel. Cover the mouth with a cloth to permit release of methane. Stir the solution thrice a day. Keep it under shade in a cool and dry place. Continue the process for 4 days. Now Jiva-Amrutha is ready for use
Filter the solution if you have to make foliar application
How to use Jiva-Amrutha?
First method of application is for increasing the humus of the soil.
For this you need to apply 200 litres to 400 litres per acre of this solution when you water your field
For soil application you need not filter the prepared solution
You must apply this solution with 4 to 5 days of preparation of the solution
Is there any other use for Jiva-Amrutha?
Yes, you can apply it to all types of crops through the foliar way in addition to soil application.
For foliar application, you need to filter the prepared solution.
You need to dilute the prepared solution and spray the same during evening hours or during the first hour of sunrise
How do you dilute the Jiva-Amrutha for foliar application and when do you make foliar application on plants with life upto 120 days
Take 100 litres of water and add 5 litres of the filtered Jiva Amrutha and mix the same well and spray the same and drench the plant completely 30 days after sowing of the seeds;
30 days after this first foliar application, take 150 litres of water add 10 litres of Jiva-Amrutha and spray the same to drench the plants completely;
30 days after the second application, take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same to drench the plants completely;
At the time of seed formation ie. Palpikum paruvathil, take 200 lites of water and 5 litres of sour buttermilk and stir the solution well and drench the plants completely
How to dilute and make foliar application of Jiva-Amrutha on plants with life upto 180 days
In the first phase take 100 litres of water and add 5 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray to the plants on the 30th day of sowing;
In the second phase take 150 litres of water and add 10 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray on the plants 30 days after the first phase of spraying;
In the third phase take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of Jiva-Amrutham and spray in such a way that you fully drench the plants, this should be done on the 30th day after 2nd phase;
On the fourth phase, take 200 litres of water and add 5 litres of sour buttermilk and stir the solution well and spray the same on the plants so as to drench the plants; the fourth phase should be done 30 days from 3rd phase;
On the fifth phase, take 200 litres of water and add Sapthadanya add ten litres of Komeyum and leave it for 24 hour in a cool dry plance and filter this solution and spray so as to drench the plants well. This fifth phase should be done 30 days from fourth phase.
How to use Jiva-Amrutha on plants with one year life cycle?
On the 30th day of planting take 100 litres of water and add 5 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray it on the plants;
On the 60th day of planting take 150 litres of water and add 10 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same on the plants;
On the 90th day of planting take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same on the plants;
On the 120th day of planting take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same on the plants;
On the 150th day of planting take 200 litres of water and add 5 litres of Sour Butter Milk and spray the same on the plants;
On the 180th day of planting take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same on the plants
How to use Jiva-Amrutha on plants with life cycle of one year and over continued
On the 210th day take 200 litres of water and add 2 litres of Matured Coconut water and stir the solution and spray the same on the plants;
On the 240th day take 200 litres of water and add 20 litres of filtered Jiva-Amrutham and spray the same on the plants;
On the 240th day take 200 litres of water add Saptha Dhanyakura Arka and spray the same on the plants.
Saturday, April 11, 2009
Tips on improving soil fertilty - Throug application of Blue Green Algae
What is Blue Green Algae? How does it help in soil enrichment?
Blue Gree Algae is a photosynthetic Cyanobacteria. Cyanobacteria are found in almost every conceivable environment, from oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil.
Cyanobacteria have an elaborate and highly organized system of internal membranes which function in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis in cyanobacteria generally uses water as an electron donor and produces oxygen as a by-product, though some may also use hydrogen sulfide as occurs among other photosynthetic bacteria. Carbon dioxide is reduced to form carbohydrates via the Calvin cycle. In most forms the photosynthetic machinery is embedded into folds of the cell membrane, called thylakoids. The large amounts of oxygen in the atmosphere are considered to have been first created by the activities of ancient cyanobacteria. Due to their ability to fix nitrogen in aerobic conditions they are often found as symbionts with a number of other groups of organisms such as fungi (lichens), corals, pteridophytes (Azolla), angiosperms (Gunnera) etc.
Cyanobacteria are the only group of organisms that are able to reduce nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions, a fact that may be responsible for their evolutionary and ecological success.
This photosynthetic cyanobacteria that belongs to the plant kingdom is found in the paddy fields where good sunlight, water, high temperature and high nutrients are found. These bacteria fix the atmospheric nitrogen into the soil. It is normally seen floating as dense mats in paddy fields.
Application Method: The Blue Green Algae is added to the soil during the first week of transplantation of the paddy sapling. Normally 4 kgs per acre is the recommended dosage. Water level during this period should be maintained at a minimum of 3 cms in the paddy field. It is suggested to add Blue Green Algae for atleast four to five seasons in the paddy field. Subsequently, it grows naturally and will give a significant result which will lead to enrichment of the soil through fixation of atmospheric nitrogen as well as by increasing the humus value of the soil.
Warning:
Certain cyanobacteria produce cyanotoxins like anatoxin-a, anatoxin-as, aplysiatoxin, cylindrospermopsin, domoic acid, microcystin LR, nodularin R (from Nodularia), or saxitoxin. Sometimes a mass-reproduction of cyanobacteria results in algal blooms.
These toxins can be neurotoxins, hepatotoxins, cytotoxins, and endotoxins, and can be dangerous to animals and humans. Several cases of human poisoning have been documented but a lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks
Blue Gree Algae is a photosynthetic Cyanobacteria. Cyanobacteria are found in almost every conceivable environment, from oceans to fresh water to bare rock to soil.
Cyanobacteria have an elaborate and highly organized system of internal membranes which function in photosynthesis. Photosynthesis in cyanobacteria generally uses water as an electron donor and produces oxygen as a by-product, though some may also use hydrogen sulfide as occurs among other photosynthetic bacteria. Carbon dioxide is reduced to form carbohydrates via the Calvin cycle. In most forms the photosynthetic machinery is embedded into folds of the cell membrane, called thylakoids. The large amounts of oxygen in the atmosphere are considered to have been first created by the activities of ancient cyanobacteria. Due to their ability to fix nitrogen in aerobic conditions they are often found as symbionts with a number of other groups of organisms such as fungi (lichens), corals, pteridophytes (Azolla), angiosperms (Gunnera) etc.
Cyanobacteria are the only group of organisms that are able to reduce nitrogen and carbon in aerobic conditions, a fact that may be responsible for their evolutionary and ecological success.
This photosynthetic cyanobacteria that belongs to the plant kingdom is found in the paddy fields where good sunlight, water, high temperature and high nutrients are found. These bacteria fix the atmospheric nitrogen into the soil. It is normally seen floating as dense mats in paddy fields.
Application Method: The Blue Green Algae is added to the soil during the first week of transplantation of the paddy sapling. Normally 4 kgs per acre is the recommended dosage. Water level during this period should be maintained at a minimum of 3 cms in the paddy field. It is suggested to add Blue Green Algae for atleast four to five seasons in the paddy field. Subsequently, it grows naturally and will give a significant result which will lead to enrichment of the soil through fixation of atmospheric nitrogen as well as by increasing the humus value of the soil.
Warning:
Certain cyanobacteria produce cyanotoxins like anatoxin-a, anatoxin-as, aplysiatoxin, cylindrospermopsin, domoic acid, microcystin LR, nodularin R (from Nodularia), or saxitoxin. Sometimes a mass-reproduction of cyanobacteria results in algal blooms.
These toxins can be neurotoxins, hepatotoxins, cytotoxins, and endotoxins, and can be dangerous to animals and humans. Several cases of human poisoning have been documented but a lack of knowledge prevents an accurate assessment of the risks
Tips on improving soil fertilty - through cultivation of azolla
What is Azolla?
Red Azolla is a small, native, floating fern – one of only six, free-floating, aquatic fern species. It grows from 1 cm to 2.5 cm wide and is a bright green colour. Its colour changes to deep red when it is exposed to the sun, thus the name Red Azolla.
Azolla grows in waterways in dense patches, which can look like a green or red carpet. From a distance it may be confused with Salvinia, a noxious aquatic weed, or the scum of a bluegreen algal bloom.
Azolla culture -
Azolla which is one of the waterborne blue green algae or fern is mainly used as an organic fertilizer in rice field in many part of world. Azolla has micro leaves, fibrous roots as body parts & these small leaves are greenish from above & whitish in color below. However the anatomy of leaves has concern, these leaves have small vacuum in upper part which consist of Blue green algae called as “ANABINA AZOLLY” which fixes nitrogen from surrounding environment. There is symbiosis between Azolla & blue green algae in which nitrogen required for Azolla provided by blue green algae & algae requires some essential nutrients from Azolla. As far as use of Azolla for milch animal is concerned, now a day, there is much attention on the aspect of animal nutrition and Azolla. Azolla has abundant amount of proteins & vitamins. Azolla consist 25 to 35% proteins as well as Ferous, Copper, Magnesium in good proportion than that of ordinary fodder grasses, if we use Azolla in feed of milch animals then milk production will obviously high. It also studied that by using Azolla in feed of animals, there is decrease in cost of feed than that of whatever ordinary feeds & feedstuffs used in diet of animals. If we use EM along with Azolla then this also increase milk production. If we consider these practices on the basis of Dry Matter, then besides above mentioned proteins values, there is additional 10 to 15 % minerals & 7 to 10 % amino acids and bio active enzymes.
Sr No Fodder crops Yearly production(Tons/Hectare) Dry matter %age Protein %age
1 Hybrid Napier 250 50 4
2 Lucern 80 16 3.2
3 Cow pea 35 07 1.4
4 Jowar 40 3.2 0.6
5 Azolla 730 56 20
Production- Azolla is produced as follows (NARDEP) Under the 2 m pit then clean edges and base of pit should be smooth under the shade of tree, dig 2 in a level. Put plastic paper in pit then place silpaulin sheet above the plastic sheet. Put 10 – 15 kg fine soil after that spray slurry which contains 2kg cow dung& 30gm super phosphate in 10 liters of water. Add water o make the level of water of 10c.m..Then add 0.5-1kg of fresh Pure Azolla culture. After 10-15 days there is uniform growth of Azolla .afterward from each bed 500-600 gms of Azolla can be procured .Regularly after each 5days 1kg of Dung and 20gms of super phosphate to be added in each bed. Mixture of Picrolutopa also added at each week. It has necessary to harvest 200gms of Azolla per week. Also temperature of surrounding should not go above 25C,kee the water pH 5.5 -7 .At each month,5kg soil should be replaced and at the age of six month ,these bed should totally replaced with new beds. During this procedure, Azolla caught smell of cow dung and so for that animal can not eat Azolla when it fed solely. So what, care is taken to wash harvested Azolla then mix small amount in concentrates of animals initially. After animal has conditioned with smell of Azolla you can put Azolla solely as feed of cattle.azolla should be fed in the proportion of 1:1 as cattle feed (1.5 to 2 kg).Per kg production cost for Azolla is 60 to 65 paisa Vivekananda Kendra, Kanyakumari conducts regular training programme to educate farmers on techniques of cultivation of Azolla.
How does Azolla help in the improvement of agricultural soil?
This floating fern grows well in marshy land where paddy is cultivated. About 2 to 3 kg of Azolla is required per acre of land. First, the water should be allowed to stagnate in the land to be cultivated. Then Azolla should be sown. After fifteen days, these plants are mulched and integrated into the soil before transplanting of sapling. It degrades in about seven to ten days and provides nitrogen for the paddy.
After a week of transplanting of the paddy saplings, Azolla should be strewn in the paddy fields. Azolla will now grow as an intercrop. It takes about 21 days uniformly spreading into the entire area of the field. Once, this is achieved, please drain off the water and integrate the azolla into the soil. Repeat the process so that you can integrate the same for the third time when you are conducting the weeding operation for the second time.
The advantages of Azolla are:-
• It is a source of providing nitrogen to your plants at economical cost;
• It helps in increasing the yield at the time of harvest;
• As azolla is natural fern it helps in increasing the humus value of the soil which is good for soil health and enrichment;
• Since you are growing alongwith paddy crop, the percentage of weed in the field goes down considerably;
• Use of azolla is equal to use of green manure.
Friday, April 10, 2009
Tips on improving soil fertilty - Through application of Vermicompost
Vermicomposting
TYPES OF EARTHWORM
The most common types of earthworms used for vermicomposting are brandling worms (Eisenia foetida) and redworms or red wigglers (Lumbricus rubellus). Often found in aged manure piles, they generally have alternating red and buff-colored stripes. They are not to be confused with the common garden or field earthworm (Allolobophora caliginosa and other species). Although the garden earthworm occasionally feeds on the bottom of a compost pile, they prefer ordinary soil. An acre of land can have as many as 500,000 earthworms, which can recycle as much as 5 tons of soil or more per year. Redworms and brandling worms, however, prefer the compost or manure environment. Passing through the gut of the earthworm, recycled organic wastes are excreted as castings, or worm manure, an organic material rich in nutrients that looks like fine-textured soil.
WHAT IS VERICOMPOSTING?
Vermicompost contains not only worm castings, but also bedding materials and organic wastes at various stages of decomposition. It also contains worms at various stages of development and other microorganisms associated with the composting processing. Earthworm castings in the home garden often contain 5 to 11 times more nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium as the surrounding soil. Secretions in the intestinal tracts of earthworms, along with soil passing through the earthworms, make nutrients more concentrated and available for plant uptake, including micronutrients. Redworms in vermicompost act in a similar fashion, breaking down food wastes and other organic residues into nutrient-rich compost. Nutrients in vermicompost are often much higher than traditional garden compost (see table 1).
Table 1. Chemical characteristics of garden compost and vermicompost, 1994.
Parameter* Garden compost1 Vermicompost2
pH 7.80 6.80
EC (mmhos/cm)** 3.60 11.70
Total Kjeldahl nitrogen(%)*** ````````````````0.80 1.94
Nitrate nitrogen (ppm)**** 156.50 902.20
Phosphorous (%) 0.35 0.47
Potassium (%) 0.48 0.70
Calcium (%) 2.27 4.40
Sodium (%) < .01 0.02
Magnesium (%) 0.57 0.46
Iron (ppm) 11690.00 7563.00
Zinc (ppm) 128.00 278.00
Manganese (ppm) 414.00 475.00
Copper (ppm) 17.00 27.00
Boron (ppm) 25.00 34.00
Aluminum (ppm) 7380.00 7012.00
1Albuquerque sample 2Tijeras sample
*Units- ppm=parts per million mmhos/cm=millimhos per centimeter
** EC = electrical conductivity is a measure (millimhos per centimeter) of the
relative salinity of soil or the amount of soluble salts it contains.
*** Kjeldahl nitrogen = is a measure of the total percentage of nitrogen in the
sample including that in the organic matter.
**** Nitrate nitrogen = that nitrogen in the sample that is immediately available
for plant uptake by the roots.
Finished vermicompost should have a rich, earthly smell if properly processed by worms. Vermicompost can be used in potting soil mixes for house plants and as a top dressing for lawns. Screened vermicompost combined with potting soil mixes make an excellent medium for starting young seedlings. Vermicompost also makes an excellent mulch and soil conditioner for the home garden.
ANATOMY OF EARTHWORMS
The earthworm has a long, rounded body with a pointed head and slightly flattened posterior. Rings that surround the moist, soft body allow the earthworm to twist and turn, especially since it has no backbone. With no true legs, bristles (setae) on the body move back and forth, allowing the earthworm to crawl. The earthworm breathes through its skin. Food is ingested through the mouth into a stomach (crop). Later the food passes through the gizzard, where it is ground up by ingested stones. After passing through the intestine for digestion, whats left is eliminated. Earthworms are hermaphrodites, which means they have both male and female sex organs, but they require another earthworm to mate. The wide band (clitellum) that surrounds a mature breeding earthworm secretes mucus (albumin) after mating. Sperm from another worm is stored in sacs. As the mucus slides over the worm, it encases the sperm and eggs inside. After slipping free from the worm, both ends seal, forming a lemon-shape cocoon approximately 1/8 inch long. Two or more baby worms will hatch from one end of the cocoon in approximately 3 weeks. Baby worms are whitish to almost transparent and are 1/2 to 1 inch long. Redworms take 4 to 6 weeks to become sexually mature.
HOW TO CONSTRUCT A WORM BED/PIT
The beds can be either in the open (in the shade of a coconut groove like area) or in a covered area. Covered area is preferred for conducting all weather vermicomposting. The recommended depth of the pit should be 12 to 18 inches and not more. Keep the width of the bed at four feet max. Length of the bed may be decided to your convenience.
First layer of the bedding should be made of farm waste. Over the same, apply liberally fresh cow dung diluted in water. Over that surface add a layer of fresh cow dung. Again make a layer of farm waste. Sprinkle liberally the cowdung diluted in water. Keep on top another layer of fresh cow dung. Fill up the pit completely. Keep adequate moisture. The pit should be able to conserve moisture. Maintain the moisture of the bed. Moisture should be just adequate. Cover the top with some black cloth or dark coloured cloth. This will help in retaining the moisture. The worms also prefer darkness. You may cover the top with straw mulch too. This will also help in ventilation. You must be careful of pests, birds, etc that feed on the earthworm.
BEDDING MATERIALS
Bedding for bins can be made from shredded newspapers (non-glossy), computer paper, or cardboard; shredded leaves, straw, hay, or dead plants; sawdust; peat moss; or compost or aged (or composted) manure.. Grass clippings should be allowed to age before use because they may decompose too quickly, causing the compost to heat up. Bedding materials high in cellulose are best because they help aerate the bin so the worms can breathe. Varying the bedding material provides a richer source of nutrients. Some soil or sand can be added to help provide grit for the worms digestive systems. Allow the bedding material to set for several days to make sure it doesn’t heat up (and allow to cool before adding worms). The bedding material should be thoroughly moistened (about the consistency of a damp sponge) before adding the worms. Fill the bin three-quarters full of moist bedding, lifting it gently afterwards to create air space for the worms to breathe and to control odors.
ADDING THE WORMS
Under optimum conditions, redworms can eat their own weight in food scraps and bedding in one day. On the average, however, it takes approximately 2 pounds of earthworms (approximately 2,000 breeders) to recycle a pound of food waste in 24 hours. The same quantity of worrms requires about 4 cubic feet of bin to process the food waste and bedding(1 cubic foot of worm bin/500 worms). Composting worms can be purchased from dealers Add worms to the top of the moist bedding when they arrive. The worms will disappear into the bedding within a few minutes.
CONTROLLING TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE IN THE BIN/PIT
Redworms can survive a wide range of temperatures (40-80F), but they reproduce and process food waste at an optimum bedding temperature range of 55-77F. The worms should never be allowed to freeze. The bin/pit contents should be kept moist but not soaked. Do not allow rainfall to run off a roof into the bin/pit. This could cause the worms to drown. A straw covering may be needed in exposed sites to keep the bin/pit from drying out during hot summer weather.
MAINTAINING THE BIN/PIT
Food scraps can be continually added to the bin for up to 2 to 3 months, or until you notice the bedding material disappear. When the bedding disappears, harvest the worms and finished compost, then refill the bins with new bedding material. Overloading the bin with food wastes can result in foul odors. If you notice these odors, stop adding the waste until the worms have a chance to catch up. Overly moist food waste and bedding also cause odors. To relieve this roblem, fluff up the bedding to add air and check the drainage holes. As a general rule of thumb, keep the bedding material moist, but never soggy. Make sure the food waste is buried properly in the bedding. Exposed food wastes can attract fruit flies, house flies, and other pests. Keeping the bin/pit covered with straw or moist dark cloth also deters these pests. Garden centipedes can be a problem in the worm bin/pit, especially outside. These predators should be destroyed. Overly wet beds also can attract the earthworm mite, which may cause the worms to stop eating.
HARVESTING THE COMPOST AND WORMS
Once the pit/bin is ready for harvest, collect few kilos of fresh cow dung and keep it on the top of the bed in two or three places. All the worms will move towards the fresh dung and will stay underneath the fresh dung. Collect these worms and move them to the new pit/bin. Do this process a few times till you are satisfied that you have collected all or a significant majority of the worms.
The compost also can be placed in small piles on a tarp in the sun (or under bright lights inside). Because worms don’t like light, they will wiggle to the bottoms of the piles. After waiting 10 minutes, remove the upper inch or more of finished compost from each pile until you run into the worms. Allow the worms to again wiggle to the bottom of the pile and repeat the process. Combine what is left of the small piles into one big pile and again repeat the process. You should eventually end up with a pile of finished compost for your use. You will also get a ball of worms which you can reintroduce into the new bed/pit/bin.
You can directly apply the vermicompost on the top soil. This will certainly enrich the soil and enhance its fertility very substantially. Ofcourse, if you buy vermicompost from manufaturers and apply it may not be cost effective. As farmers we should try our best to produce items like vermicompost ourselves as all the inputs are available in the farm itself.
TYPES OF EARTHWORM
The most common types of earthworms used for vermicomposting are brandling worms (Eisenia foetida) and redworms or red wigglers (Lumbricus rubellus). Often found in aged manure piles, they generally have alternating red and buff-colored stripes. They are not to be confused with the common garden or field earthworm (Allolobophora caliginosa and other species). Although the garden earthworm occasionally feeds on the bottom of a compost pile, they prefer ordinary soil. An acre of land can have as many as 500,000 earthworms, which can recycle as much as 5 tons of soil or more per year. Redworms and brandling worms, however, prefer the compost or manure environment. Passing through the gut of the earthworm, recycled organic wastes are excreted as castings, or worm manure, an organic material rich in nutrients that looks like fine-textured soil.
WHAT IS VERICOMPOSTING?
Vermicompost contains not only worm castings, but also bedding materials and organic wastes at various stages of decomposition. It also contains worms at various stages of development and other microorganisms associated with the composting processing. Earthworm castings in the home garden often contain 5 to 11 times more nitrogen, phosphorous, and potassium as the surrounding soil. Secretions in the intestinal tracts of earthworms, along with soil passing through the earthworms, make nutrients more concentrated and available for plant uptake, including micronutrients. Redworms in vermicompost act in a similar fashion, breaking down food wastes and other organic residues into nutrient-rich compost. Nutrients in vermicompost are often much higher than traditional garden compost (see table 1).
Table 1. Chemical characteristics of garden compost and vermicompost, 1994.
Parameter* Garden compost1 Vermicompost2
pH 7.80 6.80
EC (mmhos/cm)** 3.60 11.70
Total Kjeldahl nitrogen(%)*** ````````````````0.80 1.94
Nitrate nitrogen (ppm)**** 156.50 902.20
Phosphorous (%) 0.35 0.47
Potassium (%) 0.48 0.70
Calcium (%) 2.27 4.40
Sodium (%) < .01 0.02
Magnesium (%) 0.57 0.46
Iron (ppm) 11690.00 7563.00
Zinc (ppm) 128.00 278.00
Manganese (ppm) 414.00 475.00
Copper (ppm) 17.00 27.00
Boron (ppm) 25.00 34.00
Aluminum (ppm) 7380.00 7012.00
1Albuquerque sample 2Tijeras sample
*Units- ppm=parts per million mmhos/cm=millimhos per centimeter
** EC = electrical conductivity is a measure (millimhos per centimeter) of the
relative salinity of soil or the amount of soluble salts it contains.
*** Kjeldahl nitrogen = is a measure of the total percentage of nitrogen in the
sample including that in the organic matter.
**** Nitrate nitrogen = that nitrogen in the sample that is immediately available
for plant uptake by the roots.
Finished vermicompost should have a rich, earthly smell if properly processed by worms. Vermicompost can be used in potting soil mixes for house plants and as a top dressing for lawns. Screened vermicompost combined with potting soil mixes make an excellent medium for starting young seedlings. Vermicompost also makes an excellent mulch and soil conditioner for the home garden.
ANATOMY OF EARTHWORMS
The earthworm has a long, rounded body with a pointed head and slightly flattened posterior. Rings that surround the moist, soft body allow the earthworm to twist and turn, especially since it has no backbone. With no true legs, bristles (setae) on the body move back and forth, allowing the earthworm to crawl. The earthworm breathes through its skin. Food is ingested through the mouth into a stomach (crop). Later the food passes through the gizzard, where it is ground up by ingested stones. After passing through the intestine for digestion, whats left is eliminated. Earthworms are hermaphrodites, which means they have both male and female sex organs, but they require another earthworm to mate. The wide band (clitellum) that surrounds a mature breeding earthworm secretes mucus (albumin) after mating. Sperm from another worm is stored in sacs. As the mucus slides over the worm, it encases the sperm and eggs inside. After slipping free from the worm, both ends seal, forming a lemon-shape cocoon approximately 1/8 inch long. Two or more baby worms will hatch from one end of the cocoon in approximately 3 weeks. Baby worms are whitish to almost transparent and are 1/2 to 1 inch long. Redworms take 4 to 6 weeks to become sexually mature.
HOW TO CONSTRUCT A WORM BED/PIT
The beds can be either in the open (in the shade of a coconut groove like area) or in a covered area. Covered area is preferred for conducting all weather vermicomposting. The recommended depth of the pit should be 12 to 18 inches and not more. Keep the width of the bed at four feet max. Length of the bed may be decided to your convenience.
First layer of the bedding should be made of farm waste. Over the same, apply liberally fresh cow dung diluted in water. Over that surface add a layer of fresh cow dung. Again make a layer of farm waste. Sprinkle liberally the cowdung diluted in water. Keep on top another layer of fresh cow dung. Fill up the pit completely. Keep adequate moisture. The pit should be able to conserve moisture. Maintain the moisture of the bed. Moisture should be just adequate. Cover the top with some black cloth or dark coloured cloth. This will help in retaining the moisture. The worms also prefer darkness. You may cover the top with straw mulch too. This will also help in ventilation. You must be careful of pests, birds, etc that feed on the earthworm.
BEDDING MATERIALS
Bedding for bins can be made from shredded newspapers (non-glossy), computer paper, or cardboard; shredded leaves, straw, hay, or dead plants; sawdust; peat moss; or compost or aged (or composted) manure.. Grass clippings should be allowed to age before use because they may decompose too quickly, causing the compost to heat up. Bedding materials high in cellulose are best because they help aerate the bin so the worms can breathe. Varying the bedding material provides a richer source of nutrients. Some soil or sand can be added to help provide grit for the worms digestive systems. Allow the bedding material to set for several days to make sure it doesn’t heat up (and allow to cool before adding worms). The bedding material should be thoroughly moistened (about the consistency of a damp sponge) before adding the worms. Fill the bin three-quarters full of moist bedding, lifting it gently afterwards to create air space for the worms to breathe and to control odors.
ADDING THE WORMS
Under optimum conditions, redworms can eat their own weight in food scraps and bedding in one day. On the average, however, it takes approximately 2 pounds of earthworms (approximately 2,000 breeders) to recycle a pound of food waste in 24 hours. The same quantity of worrms requires about 4 cubic feet of bin to process the food waste and bedding(1 cubic foot of worm bin/500 worms). Composting worms can be purchased from dealers Add worms to the top of the moist bedding when they arrive. The worms will disappear into the bedding within a few minutes.
CONTROLLING TEMPERATURE AND MOISTURE IN THE BIN/PIT
Redworms can survive a wide range of temperatures (40-80F), but they reproduce and process food waste at an optimum bedding temperature range of 55-77F. The worms should never be allowed to freeze. The bin/pit contents should be kept moist but not soaked. Do not allow rainfall to run off a roof into the bin/pit. This could cause the worms to drown. A straw covering may be needed in exposed sites to keep the bin/pit from drying out during hot summer weather.
MAINTAINING THE BIN/PIT
Food scraps can be continually added to the bin for up to 2 to 3 months, or until you notice the bedding material disappear. When the bedding disappears, harvest the worms and finished compost, then refill the bins with new bedding material. Overloading the bin with food wastes can result in foul odors. If you notice these odors, stop adding the waste until the worms have a chance to catch up. Overly moist food waste and bedding also cause odors. To relieve this roblem, fluff up the bedding to add air and check the drainage holes. As a general rule of thumb, keep the bedding material moist, but never soggy. Make sure the food waste is buried properly in the bedding. Exposed food wastes can attract fruit flies, house flies, and other pests. Keeping the bin/pit covered with straw or moist dark cloth also deters these pests. Garden centipedes can be a problem in the worm bin/pit, especially outside. These predators should be destroyed. Overly wet beds also can attract the earthworm mite, which may cause the worms to stop eating.
HARVESTING THE COMPOST AND WORMS
Once the pit/bin is ready for harvest, collect few kilos of fresh cow dung and keep it on the top of the bed in two or three places. All the worms will move towards the fresh dung and will stay underneath the fresh dung. Collect these worms and move them to the new pit/bin. Do this process a few times till you are satisfied that you have collected all or a significant majority of the worms.
The compost also can be placed in small piles on a tarp in the sun (or under bright lights inside). Because worms don’t like light, they will wiggle to the bottoms of the piles. After waiting 10 minutes, remove the upper inch or more of finished compost from each pile until you run into the worms. Allow the worms to again wiggle to the bottom of the pile and repeat the process. Combine what is left of the small piles into one big pile and again repeat the process. You should eventually end up with a pile of finished compost for your use. You will also get a ball of worms which you can reintroduce into the new bed/pit/bin.
You can directly apply the vermicompost on the top soil. This will certainly enrich the soil and enhance its fertility very substantially. Ofcourse, if you buy vermicompost from manufaturers and apply it may not be cost effective. As farmers we should try our best to produce items like vermicompost ourselves as all the inputs are available in the farm itself.
Tips on improving soil fertilty - Through application of bio fertilisers
What is a bio-fertiliser? Why should we use bio-fertilisers?
There certain micro organisms that are found in the soil. These micro organism have a capacity to fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil in an uptakable form for the plants.
The fertilizers are used to improve the fertility of the land using biological wastes, hence the term bio fertilizers, and biological wastes do not contain any chemicals which are detrimental to the living soil. They are extremely beneficial in enriching the soil with those micro-organisms, which produce organic nutrients for the soil and help combat diseases.
The major bio fertilizers are:
• Azospirillum – It fixes the atmospheric nitrogen in the root areas of the crop. It helps in easy assimilation of nitrogen and helps in the growth of the crop. This can be used for all crops. Like azotobacter, azospirillum species also do not form root nodules or associate with leguminous crops. They are however not free-living and live inside plant roots where they fix nitrogen, and can be used in wetland conditions. This group of microorganisms also produce beneficial substances for plant growth, besides fixing atmospheric nitrogen. Azospirillum does well in soils with organic matter and moisture content, and requires a pH level of above 6.0;
• Acetobacter – This is a bio fertilizer that is essentially used for sugarcane crop only. This is referred to in Tamil Nadu as “Karuppu Urea” or “Blackurea”. Azotobacter is also a group of nitrogen-fixing bacteria but unlike rhizobia, they do not form root nodules or associate with leguminous crops. They are free-living nitrogen fixers and can be used for all types of upland crops but cannot survive in wetland conditions. In soils of poor fertility and organic matter, azotobacter need to be regularly applied. In addition to nitrogen-fixation, they also produce beneficial growth substances and beneficial antibiotics that help control root diseases.
• Phospobacteria – This converts insoluble forms of phosphate into soluble form for quick absorption by the plants. Their importance lies in the fact that barely a third of phosphorous in the soil is actually available to the crop as the rest is insoluble. They require sufficient organic matter in the soil to be of any great benefit.This can be used for all crops.
• Rhizobium – This is used only for leguminous crops. The species Rhizobium leguminosarum can be used in the cultivation of all dicot plants like, pigeon peas (thoor), blackgram (urad), cowpea, greenmung beans, chickpeas, soyabeans, groundnut, etc. Rhizobia is a group of bacteria that fixes nitrogen in association with the roots of leguminous crops. Rhizobia can fix 40-120 kgs. of nitrogen per acre annually depending upon the crop, rhizobium species and environmental conditions. They help improve soil fertility, plant nutrition and plant growth and have no negative effect on soil or the environment. Every leguminous crop requires a specific rhizobium species;
• Tricoderma - It is a non- pathogenic and eco-friendly product. The product is antagonistic hyper parasitic against different pathogens in the field and economically well established biocontrol agent;
• Composter - (Decomposing Culture): Composter breaks down any organic matter such as dead plants farm yard waste, cattle waste etc. thereby increasing the soil productivity;
• Trico-card - Trichogramma is an efficient destroyer of eggs of many leaf and flower eaters, stems, fruit, shoot borers etc. It can be used in a variety of crops as well as in horticultural and ornamental plants,such as sugarcane, cotton, brinjal, tomato, corn, jawar, vegetables, citrus, paddy, etc.;
• Bio-compost - It is eco-friendly organic fertilizer which is prepared from the sugar industry waste material which is decomposed and enriched of with various plants and human friendly bacteria and fungi. Biocompost consists of nitrogen, phosphate solubilizing bacteria and various useful fungi like decomposing fungi, trichoderma viridea which protects the plants from various soil borne disease and also help to increase soil fertility which results to a good quality product to the farmers.
With the integration of these bio fertilizers into the soil (depending on the crop under cultivation) the soil gets enriched and this leads to larger harvest of produce for the farmer. The soil too gets enriched as these micro organisms continue to increase the humus value of the top soil.
There certain micro organisms that are found in the soil. These micro organism have a capacity to fix atmospheric nitrogen into the soil in an uptakable form for the plants.
The fertilizers are used to improve the fertility of the land using biological wastes, hence the term bio fertilizers, and biological wastes do not contain any chemicals which are detrimental to the living soil. They are extremely beneficial in enriching the soil with those micro-organisms, which produce organic nutrients for the soil and help combat diseases.
The major bio fertilizers are:
• Azospirillum – It fixes the atmospheric nitrogen in the root areas of the crop. It helps in easy assimilation of nitrogen and helps in the growth of the crop. This can be used for all crops. Like azotobacter, azospirillum species also do not form root nodules or associate with leguminous crops. They are however not free-living and live inside plant roots where they fix nitrogen, and can be used in wetland conditions. This group of microorganisms also produce beneficial substances for plant growth, besides fixing atmospheric nitrogen. Azospirillum does well in soils with organic matter and moisture content, and requires a pH level of above 6.0;
• Acetobacter – This is a bio fertilizer that is essentially used for sugarcane crop only. This is referred to in Tamil Nadu as “Karuppu Urea” or “Blackurea”. Azotobacter is also a group of nitrogen-fixing bacteria but unlike rhizobia, they do not form root nodules or associate with leguminous crops. They are free-living nitrogen fixers and can be used for all types of upland crops but cannot survive in wetland conditions. In soils of poor fertility and organic matter, azotobacter need to be regularly applied. In addition to nitrogen-fixation, they also produce beneficial growth substances and beneficial antibiotics that help control root diseases.
• Phospobacteria – This converts insoluble forms of phosphate into soluble form for quick absorption by the plants. Their importance lies in the fact that barely a third of phosphorous in the soil is actually available to the crop as the rest is insoluble. They require sufficient organic matter in the soil to be of any great benefit.This can be used for all crops.
• Rhizobium – This is used only for leguminous crops. The species Rhizobium leguminosarum can be used in the cultivation of all dicot plants like, pigeon peas (thoor), blackgram (urad), cowpea, greenmung beans, chickpeas, soyabeans, groundnut, etc. Rhizobia is a group of bacteria that fixes nitrogen in association with the roots of leguminous crops. Rhizobia can fix 40-120 kgs. of nitrogen per acre annually depending upon the crop, rhizobium species and environmental conditions. They help improve soil fertility, plant nutrition and plant growth and have no negative effect on soil or the environment. Every leguminous crop requires a specific rhizobium species;
• Tricoderma - It is a non- pathogenic and eco-friendly product. The product is antagonistic hyper parasitic against different pathogens in the field and economically well established biocontrol agent;
• Composter - (Decomposing Culture): Composter breaks down any organic matter such as dead plants farm yard waste, cattle waste etc. thereby increasing the soil productivity;
• Trico-card - Trichogramma is an efficient destroyer of eggs of many leaf and flower eaters, stems, fruit, shoot borers etc. It can be used in a variety of crops as well as in horticultural and ornamental plants,such as sugarcane, cotton, brinjal, tomato, corn, jawar, vegetables, citrus, paddy, etc.;
• Bio-compost - It is eco-friendly organic fertilizer which is prepared from the sugar industry waste material which is decomposed and enriched of with various plants and human friendly bacteria and fungi. Biocompost consists of nitrogen, phosphate solubilizing bacteria and various useful fungi like decomposing fungi, trichoderma viridea which protects the plants from various soil borne disease and also help to increase soil fertility which results to a good quality product to the farmers.
With the integration of these bio fertilizers into the soil (depending on the crop under cultivation) the soil gets enriched and this leads to larger harvest of produce for the farmer. The soil too gets enriched as these micro organisms continue to increase the humus value of the top soil.
Thursday, April 9, 2009
Tips on improving soil fertilty - Farmyad Manure
What is a farm yard manure? What is the typical soil nutritional value in farm yard manure?
This is the traditional manure and is mostly readily available to the farmers. Farm yard manure is a decomposed mixture of Cattle dung and urine with straw and litter used as bedding material and residues from the fodder fed to the cattle. The waste material of cattle shed consisting of dung and urine soaked in the refuse of the shade is collected daily and placed in trenches about 6-7 m long, 1.5-2 m broad and 1 m deep. Each trench is filled up to a height of about 0.5 m above the ground level. The top of the heap is to be made dome shaped and plastered over with cow dung earth slurry. It becomes ready to apply after 3-4 months. It is possible to prepare by this process 7-8.5 cu.m of manure. (5-6 tonnes or 10-12 cart loads) per year per head of cattle.
A typical analysis of farmyard manure from cow dung is given below for reference. The values could be different based on the feed provided to the cow from farm to farm. The values are only for reference purposes:
Nitrogen 0.5000
Phosphorus 0.2500
Potassium 0.4000
Calcium 0.0800
Sulfur 0.0200
Zinc 0.0040
Copper 0.0003
Manganese 0.0070
Iron 0.4500
You can further fortify and enrich your farm yard manure with bio fertilisers. This will make your farm yard manure richer. Application of fortified farm yard manure will enhance the soil fertility substantially.
Tips on improving soil fertilty
The following methods on a stand alone basis or in combination will improve the soil health:-
• Application of farm yard manure;
• Application of bio fertilisers;
• Application of Vermicompost fortified with bio fertilisers;
• Cultivation and propagation of Azolla;
• Cultivation and propagation of Blue Green Algae;
• Application of Jeevamurthum; and/or Amirthakaraisal;
• Mulching of soil with green manure;
• Application and mulching of green leaf manure;
• Application of silt aka “eri vandal”;
• Crop rotation;
• Prevention of top soil erosion;
• Sandwiching of compost and top soil in the field;
• By following composting and application of compost;
• By controlling the application of inorganic fertilizers;
• By substituting inorganic insecticides, pesticides, fungicides with the help of traditional plant protection mechanisms.
In the forth coming posts let us deal with these techniques one by one.
• Application of farm yard manure;
• Application of bio fertilisers;
• Application of Vermicompost fortified with bio fertilisers;
• Cultivation and propagation of Azolla;
• Cultivation and propagation of Blue Green Algae;
• Application of Jeevamurthum; and/or Amirthakaraisal;
• Mulching of soil with green manure;
• Application and mulching of green leaf manure;
• Application of silt aka “eri vandal”;
• Crop rotation;
• Prevention of top soil erosion;
• Sandwiching of compost and top soil in the field;
• By following composting and application of compost;
• By controlling the application of inorganic fertilizers;
• By substituting inorganic insecticides, pesticides, fungicides with the help of traditional plant protection mechanisms.
In the forth coming posts let us deal with these techniques one by one.
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